Vintage Watches UK

The Dial

Omega watch dials were hand made in the 1950s, geometrical lathes used for any guilloche patterning (texturing) and paint brushes used for colouring and any hand painted artifacts, it was extremely delicate and specialised work. Unfortunately, the paints and materials used in the ‘50s would very rarely stand the test of time and most often the dials would crack, discolour, and fade leaving an unbearable mess of the dial, dramatically devaluing the watch. However, once in a blue moon the combination of pollutants, UV and daily-use that a particular vintage watch dial endures throughout its life, ages the dial in such a way that its charm in only enhanced, instead, increasing the value.

Here we have an original & entirely unrestored rhombus guilloche Omega dial. Originally in white, now in a lush honey-cream thanks to the gods of the vintage dial lottery. The aging we see here is a combination of two main components: A very slight build-up of dirt within the texturing, spread evenly across the dial, though slightly more compact at the outer edges. As well as the original hand painted white surface fading ever so slightly. Along with the excellent condition of the original gilt dial furnishings, we have a near perfect ensemble and an incredibly lucky find in the vintage watch market.

The dial is simply signed ‘Omega’ below the gilt crest with ‘Swiss Made’ below the Calatrava inspired sub-dial at ‘6’.

The Case

Dress watch design in the 1950s was very different to what we see from manufactures today. A large part of the recent boom in the vintage watch market is simply because they don’t make ‘em like they used to. A simple browse of this year’s product line from Rolex, Hublot, Audemars Piguet, and other market leading watch houses, shows a surge in porthole cases with exposed industrial screwheads, skeleton dials with a tourbillon and other neo-mechanical steampunk features. Appreciation for balance and simplicity has remained a strong pull-factor toward the luxury watches of Switzerland in the mid-20th Century, its probably why someone would read this entire listing in the first place. However, there is one feature of modern watch fashion that many struggle to leave behind. Size… it absolutely counts.

This Omega Swiss-made stainless-steel watch case measures 38mm in diameter excluding the crown. This is certainly an anomaly amongst the other dress watch cases being produced in the ‘50s. I get the impression that during the mid-20^th Century, while one of the main selling factors of mechanical watches was the vastly competitive innovation throughout the industry (similar to the smartphone industry today), the ‘compactness’ of the technology was very appealing to buyers. For this reason, larger cases were only called upon in specific scenarios, such as to house more complex movements such as chronographs or if more impact or pressure resistance was required. To todays eyes, 33mm is barely large enough for a man’s wrist and these oversized vintage examples have become very highly sought after while also being the least common. ‘Oversized’ is a term used for vintage watches at 35mm and up, though I feel at 38mm we really need another adjective… Jumbo maybe? Anyone with time for a quick browse across the internet will find that a difference of one or two millimetres difference in case size will often result in an extra thousand pounds on the asking price. Although this can seem unjust, a side by side comparison of a 33mm and a 35mm watch in front of you will almost always leave you searching for a way to make up the extra grand.

As well as it’s extraordinary size, the Omega reference 2603-4 has a gorgeous set of spider lugs. You’ll see from the side profile photographs how the lugs wrap around the wrist allowing the slim case not to be too proud on the wrist, a very sleek design choice. The original Omega signed crown is fitted, it feels sturdy and tactile to operate. The bezel and case-back both snap onto the body of the case with a reassuring pop, indicating quality construction and proper care. The inside of the case-back is inscribed ‘Stainless-Steel’ and signed with the ‘Omega Watch Co’ triangle, as well as ‘Swiss-Made’ and the Omega case reference number 2603-4.

The Movement

This watch uses the Omega Swiss-made Calibre 266. It is a manual wind 17 jewel mechanical movement from a global market leading watch house at the top of their game. As can be seen from the photographs the movement is freshly serviced and I can report that the watch runs excellently. The watch winds and sets with very little play in the drive train making the watch feel responsive and tactile to use. Inscribed on the bridges is ‘Omega, Swiss, 17 Jewels’ as well as the calibre number 266 and the movement serial number 13446596 which dates this watch to 1953.

Strap & Buckle

This watch is fitted with a brown genuine alligator strap and a vintage stainless-steel Omega buckle. If a different strap would be preferred, I can fit a 19mm strap provided by the buyer at no extra expense. To keep this buckle, the replacement strap must be 14mm wide at the buckle.

Conclusion

I'm a private seller, not a company so unfortunately returns aren't an option, unless of course the watch is broken when it arrives. I may ship 1-2 days after I receive payment, as I work full-time, and may not find time to get the package away immediately.

Feel free to ask any questions.

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