Vintage Watches UK

The Dial

This original & unrestored silver-white Lemania 105 dial is a rare beauty. Both the arrangement of the dial furnishings and the expertly balanced use of colour make this watch truly stand out amongst our collection. The mix of yellow gilt spearhead and Roman numeral hour indices is an unexpected duo but one that I'm glad came into fruition. Subsidiary dials at ‘3’ and ‘9’ display the chronograph’s minutes register and the watch’s seconds register, respectively. This dials condition is flawless, with almost zero patina or other damage visible to the naked eye, even under a loupe the dial is hard to fault. Surrounding the dial is a tachymetre scale in deep blue, used for measuring average speed over a known distance. The tachymetre scale is still crisp and clear to read as there are no visible scratches to the surface of the dial. Being the Lemania calibre 1275, this chronograph has Kif Shock-Protection, hence the warm red ‘Antichoc’ signature on the dial. Neither the blue nor red paint has faded to a significant degree, they both remain proud and eye-catching features of this watch. The yellow gilt hands and spearhead indices are decorated with a faint green lume, none of which has shattered as you often see with watches of this age. The dial is signed ‘Lemania’, ‘105’ with ‘Antichoc’, ‘Antimagnetic’ and ‘17 Rubis’ below, with ‘Swiss’ just below ‘6’.

The Case

This beautiful Swiss-made stainless-steel case features the highly sought-after rounded button pushers, rather than the tapered rectangular ones seen on so many other Lemania 105 models. This, combined with the excellent condition of the case, makes this watch a rare find indeed. The case measures 32.5mm across and 9mm tall (excluding the crown and lens in each measurement) and is of tough industrial construction. Along with the ornate button style pushers and thick tactile crown, this gives the watch a rather large wrist presence, making it suitable for both men and women’s wrists today. The case is of two-piece construction for increased dust and water protection. The screw-down case-back reads ‘Waterproof’, ‘Stainless Steel’, ‘Antichoc’ and ‘Swiss Made’, its threads are seamless to use indicating the watch hasn’t been knocked or dented too much throughout its life. Inscribed inside the case-back is ‘Acier Inoxydable’ translating to ‘Stainless Steel’ and the model reference number 254. The case is structurally sound however the waterproofing has not been tested and is not guaranteed. There are no scratches or dents on the case back or thick, tapered lugs, which are swept back to allow the watch to sit proud on the wrist.

The Movement

Inside the case is the original Lemania Cal.1275 17 jewel chronograph movement which runs magnificently. From their beginning in 1884 Lemania had specialized in complications… chronographs, minute repeaters etc. So when looking for a vintage chronograph one can never overlook the great watch-house of Lemania, the company that provided every single chronograph movement that both Omega and Tissot used from 1932 until the 1970s, the only company ever to produce a mechanical chronograph approved by NASA for use inside and outside their space vehicles. This particular watch was also produced at a time when every chronograph wristwatch provided to the British Royal Navy, Fleet Air Arm, and Royal Air Force was produced by Lemania.

The Lemania 105 was initially designed for military use but like so many other excellent military watches the 105 quickly became popular in the civilian market for their robust, go-anywhere design. As can be seen in the photographs the movement appears to have been very well maintained throughout its 60-year life which is also reflected in the watch’s performance. Both the time keeping seconds hand and the chronograph’s seconds hand skip confidently across each of their scales which indicates a strong movement that has been regularly serviced. The chronograph offers all the performance expected from a Swiss movement of this quality. The rounded button pushers are satisfying and tactile to use. The top pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph and the bottom to reset. As this is the Cal.1275, this movement uniquely features Kif-Antisock protection, a method used to protect the delicate and brittle components used in these very intricate movements. A quick piece of advice… Even when new, the chronograph wasn’t designed to run all the time, so remembering to stop and reset the chronograph will vastly increase the movements longevity between each service.

Strap & Buckle

This watch is fitted with a dark brown genuine leather strap and matching stainless-steel buckle. If a different strap would be preferred, I can fit a 16mm strap provided by the buyer at no extra expense.

Conclusion

The watch is sold as is. I'm a private seller so unfortunately returns aren't an option, unless of course the watch is broken when it arrives. I may ship 1-2 days after I receive payment, as I work full-time, and may not find time to get the package away immediately.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Offers Welcome.